Home

another early morning run to bells yesterday. we ended up surfing 3.5 to 4 foot centre-side. the water temperature is still on its way down, so i opted for the hood… mmmm warm.. well.. as warm as you can get anyway.

on the way in i paddled to bells and sat inside of the pack by about 40 meter. i could see the regular guys who like to sit on the inside looking nervously at me.. paddle in a bit, then realising ‘no that is too far’. and the very next wave i took all the way to the shore was AWESOME !! best wave yet…in australia.

just me and roh.

4